Restaurant Review: Tryst Wine & Small Plates

TRYST WINE & SMALL PLATES 100 - 21 Perron Street | trystexperience.com Instagram: @tryst_winesmallplates Co-Diner: The Husband

One of the hottest restaurants in the Edmonton area (it's in St. Albert which is pretty much a suburb of Edmonton) lately has got to be Tryst. When they were named Best New Restaurant 2022 in EDify Magazine (along with head chef Zach Eaton right on the cover) I placed the restaurant firmly onto my radar. I finally had my chance to try Tryst on a recent Saturday evening and happily made the trek out to the Perron District of St. Albert, which is a very cute part of town. Opened in March 2020, I truly can't imagine what that must have been like for a brand new restaurant. The uncertainty of it all! Luckily for everyone, they are still open today and have quickly become one of the top names in Edmonton dining. Featuring a small and intimate space, Tryst aims to create a private romantic rendezvous for their guests. I couldn't think of a better date night out! Reservations are highly recommended due to the aforementioned small dining area. The atmosphere ticks pretty much all of the current trend boxes in terms of overall decor. Twinkle lights and edison blubs? They've got both. Exposed brick and wood grain? Sure. It's that rustic industrial vibe that you'll find almost everywhere yet is admittedly very chic and comfortable. Simultaneously upscale yet unpretentious, Tryst has succeeded at creating a space suited to just about everyone. But it certainly feels like a date night spot, first and foremost. I visited in the evening but with all of their windows it must be a gloriously lit room during the day - I can imagine it being bright and airy for brunch, which they do serve on the weekend. Once seated by the friendly hostess, I was very happy to settle in and gaze over the cocktail menu. With many delicious-sounding beverages to select from, the choice wasn't exactly easy. I liked that many of the drinks on the menu were inspired by various members of the staff. It must be fun to have your own signature cocktail! I settled on the Rhubarb Crumble ($15.00) which seemed unique but also like dessert?

Barreling Tide Rhubarb Liqueur, Butter Ripple Schnapps, simple syrup, rhubarb puree, soda.

For a cocktail that sounded like it would be leaning heavily on the sweet side, it actually wasn't overdone. I loved the surgery-spiced rim but beyond that the flavours were more of a play on the tartness of rhubarb. There was good balance (you're gonna hear me use the word "balance" so much in this review and I apologize) and this drink was refreshing and fun to enjoy. The most important thing to note about Tryst is that the menu items are designed to be shared and enjoyed together. Again, this makes them excellent for a date night but it's also important to be sure to dine with someone who you are food-compatible with. Any menu with a "snacks" section is okay by me and I knew that I had to have the Charcuterie ($27.00 for half).

Locally sourced meats, locally sourced cheeses, brown sugar pickles, pickled grapes, chutney, fruit mustard, candied nuts, dried fruit, housemade sourdough, whipped brown butter, Maldon salt.

I loved that there was an option to order either a half or full board because if you're planning to eat several other dishes (like I was) then the half size is ideal. This board was wonderful! It was full of unexpected surprises that made this taste adventure different from a standard offering. There were three types of salami included and in my opinion salami is one of the finest and most delicious deli meats. For a cured meat, these ones tasted fresh. It might have been that the texture was quite tender and I could really taste each flavour profile. One type was smoky rosemary while another was lemon oregano. Each was herbaceous and flavourful. However, my favourite was the spicy one just because I love a spicy salami! I found these to be a delightful surprise. There were also three types of cheese included, all from Lakeside Farmstead Cheese north of Edmonton. Included was an Alberta Buttercheese that was rich and buttery. Creamy, medium-firm, with deep and complex flavours. It reminded me a bit of a cheddar and was very easy to eat. Next was a Brie that was ultra creamy, silky, and rich in flavour. With a bloomy edible rind, I really enjoyed that this cheese was more full-bodied than a typical mild brie. Lastly, and maybe the most special, was the Chaga Cheddar. The world's first chaga cheddar, this cheese is made with sustainably harvested chaga, a type of fungus that grows on Alberta birch trees. Beautifully marbled with a creamy texture and a mild, nutty flavour, this cheese was very unique. Plus the rest!! There was a sour cherry apricot chutney and a rhubarb mustard that were both delicious. The whipped brown butter was velvety and luxurious. And then there's the pickled grapes which were unlike anything that I've ever tasted before. Juicy bites of Christmas? Literally every component was excellent and I loved each and every little bite of everything. I could start every meal like this... Or just like, Friday night in bed with this board. We started the meal with the charcuterie board and then the rest of our dishes all came out together as the main course. It was a delight to sit around four different dishes, tasting and experiencing each one. From the "veggies" section; Brussels Sprouts ($18.00). I rarely say "no" to a brussels sprout.

Crispy brussels, Irvings Farm bacon, pickled apple, rosemary vinaigrette, Greidanus honey, aged cheddar crisp.

It's always nice to have some type of veg on the table, especially with a bunch of other heavy dishes on the go. Although, somehow this plate felt like the heaviest of them all! The portion was large and abundant with many, many crispy brussels. I absolutely loved seeing the use of Irvings Farm Fresh pork products on the menu because they are the very best. This really gives me confidence that Tryst is doing a great job of sourcing the best local products and producers that our province has to offer. This dish was a well-balanced composition of oily, acidic, sweet, and textural elements. Cheddar crisp?? Yes please. The "meat & fish" section featured a lot of very delicious things. I didn't have enough room in my stomach to accommodate the pork belly BLT sliders but definitely intend to order them next time. However, I did excitedly order the Fried Butter Chicken ($17.00).

Crispy yogurt marinated Sunworks chicken thigh, butter chicken spices, cardamom lime yogurt, pickled mango, cilantro, spicy maple butter.

This might have been my favourite dish of the night! This is likely because it was the most innovative and surprising to me. I don't think that I've ever experienced something quite like this! Somehow they have taken ultra crispy-crunchy fried chicken... But infused it with the flavour profile and warm Indian spices of butter chicken. It was almost confusing to the senses because it was executed so well! Again, another great producer with Sunworks Farm, I loved these juicy pieces of chicken. The thigh is my favourite part of the chicken because it's the most flavourful and Tryst has succeeded at harnessing that power. A whole new take on butter chicken and it really works! A very special dish. The Beef Tartare ($22.00) was another must for us.

Diced raw Gemstone beef tenderloin, Russian dressing, everything bagel crisp, cured egg yolk, parmesan, pickled red onion.

I enjoyed Tryst's take on tartare and I liked that it wasn't super standard. They took it in their own direction and it's nice to see that. The beef was ridiculously tender and I loved the idea of using an everything bagel as the vessel. Again, plenty of great balance was at play here, something that the chef at Tryst is clearly skilled at achieving. I did find that some of the flavours that I was looking forward to got a little bit lost, such as the dressing and the egg yolk. Overall, a very unctuous dish that was fun to eat. Lastly, there's the "d'oh" section which contains the dish that I'd probably heard recommended the most; Ricotta Gnocchi ($20.00).

Meuwly’s ‘nduja salami, sundried tomato cream, pistachios, garlic chips, grana padano.

I have never seen gnocchi in this shape before and I liked it. The flat squares allowed for a nice crispy sear on all sides, which I actually prefer to a super-soft version. And Meuwly's is involved! Yet another great local business that I love. There are a lot of big flavours at play in this one and it's all very satisfying, right down to the crunchy pistachios. A new way to experience gnocchi and it's certainly worth a try. I was sure to save room for dessert because I really wanted to order the Cherry Mocha Pavlova ($14.00).

Baked meringue nest, cherry curd, mocha pastry cream, cherry cardamom compote, whipping cream.

This was the correct size of dessert to follow a big meal. I appreciated that. Crispy meringue, layers of sweet cherries, and fluffy creaminess. Perfectly light. A literal cherry on top of a great meal. Tryst was wonderful and I am so happy to have visited them. I loved seeing so many of my favourite local food producers all featured in one place, highlighting their ingredients and allowing them to shine. Another big standout to me was the evident level of experience used in creating balance between flavours and textures. The food is elevated yet approachable. They're not afraid to try new ideas. It all works really well and it's quite exciting - certainly a restaurant for Albertans, by Albertans. I look forward to dining with Tryst again soon!