Restaurant Review: The Glass Monkey

THE GLASS MONKEY GASTROPUB 5842 111th Street | theglassmonkey.ca Instagram: @glassmonkeyyeg | Twitter: @GlassMonkeyYEG Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew

I've been curious about The Glass Monkey for quite some time because it's probably the closest fancy-ish restaurant to my house. You'll find them in a strip mall (albeit a very good strip mall) in Lendrum Place and I couldn't help but think that it's a bit of an interesting location for a restaurant like this. Maybe it's because the restaurant is pretty removed from all of the major commerce areas and truly feels like a hidden neighbourhood joint. This actually makes The Glass Monkey feel even more special. The Edmonton Journal gave them a pretty big award as the Best Overall Restaurant 2022 and I was very excited to find out what they're all about on a Saturday evening.

The outside doesn't look like much (although there's plenty of parking) but once you notice the enclosed patio with string lights hanging from above, you can easily imagine a hot summer night out there with a delicious drink in hand. And because they're located in such a residential area, I'm sure that many patrons are within walking distance. Inside, I was met with an upscale but comfortable space, an ideal combination of modern yet unpretentious. There's a long curving bar, large and interesting art pieces on the walls, and a general ease in the atmosphere. It wasn't long before every single table was occupied - clearly this restaurant is no secret and a reservation is a necessity. Our friendly server was very attentive and even though the restaurant was full we never felt neglected in any way. Open since 2013, The Glass Monkey aims to serve upmarket pub fare but they're certainly doing a lot better than "pub food." You will still find fries, wings, dry ribs, and potato skins on the menu, however, I actually get the impression that their cuisine has likely continued to elevate over time, evolving into a more upscale dining experience than was maybe initially intended. No harm in that! Once settled into a lovely table by a window I got to deciding on a beverage. I was excited to find Früli beer on offer but was even more dazzled by the "Monkeytails" which are a collection of fun, on-theme cocktails. These drinks have adorable names; like the Curious George and the Monkey Wrench. However, it had to be the Banana Colada ($14.95) for me because I was in the mood for something sweet and fun.

Malibu rum, banana liqueur, coconut milk, pineapple & orange juice.

You'll notice that The Glass Monkey's logo is a wine glass with one of those plastic monkeys hanging off the rim... Do you actually get a monkey on your glass in real life?! (These are the important questions!) The answer is YES! My drink had a whole chain of little rainbow-coloured monkeys dangling from it and I was beyond delighted! The cocktail itself was everything that I was hoping for and it mostly tasted like candy. I made a comment that I could easily consume the whole thing without much thought and not even realize what I'd done. Tropical, fruity, and fun, the Banana Colada is definitely a monkey's favourite cocktail. The food menu is surprisingly extensive!! From appetizers, to mains, to snacks & starters, you'll even find a full array of pizzas to choose from. I was pretty interested in the specials menu and was really into the Half Dozen Freshly Shucked 'Savage Blonde' Oysters ($21.95) which our server informed us were flown in the day prior. I'd heard that The Glass Monkey does a great job with seafood and was eager to insure that our meal involved some type of offering from the sea.

Known for their smooth, blond shells and clean appearance and taste. These tide-tumbled, northern PEI oysters were served with a basic mignonette and Tabasco sauce. Fresh, crisp, and meaty, I loved the pronounced brine and sweet, stony finish. My only criticism is that the shucking was a bit sloppy. Many of the oysters were torn and not properly disconnected from the shells. I even had a few bites where small broken pieces of shell ended up in my mouth. On the plus side, the oyster liquor was still present in each one and was not spilt. I loved the sharp and zippy mignonette and overall was very happy to toss a few of these guys back. To bring some freshness to the meal I had to order the Fennel Salad ($14.95) because I love fennel! It's the most underrated vegetable in my opinion!

Light lemon vinaigrette with orange segments & hazelnuts.

This salad was perfect for springtime. Light, bright, and fresh! Full of flavour from the crisp anise notes of the fennel, to the juicy sweetness from the orange, and the crunchy sweet hazelnuts. Plus a hit of acidity from the vinaigrette and herbaceousness from the dill. I loved everything about this salad and was so pleased to find it on the menu. Highly recommend! No question about my main, I was ordering the Braised Lamb Shank ($34.95), one of The Glass Monkey's most revered dishes.

Braised 'Moroccan style' in fragrant red wine & tomato sauce served with couscous & broccoli.

A beautiful plate and a generous portion, the cook on the lamb was excellent. Fall-off-the-bone tender, I loved each bite of this ultra-flavourful meat. Smothered in a bold and juicy tomato sauce, I did find this sauce to be a touch too heavy-handed with salt. The couscous was a great side that you don't see too often and it fit the Moroccan vibe perfectly. Overall, the lamb was the star and I felt that the dish was executed quite well. Lastly, I'd heard a lot about Our Classic 'Jack's Grill' Bread Pudding ($14.95) and knew that it had to be dessert.

Jack's Grill is the name of the longstanding restaurant that used to previously occupy the location that The Glass Monkey is now in. I only ate at Jack's once back in 2008 and this bread pudding was a staple on their menu. Back then I said that "it was sweet and decadent." Today? I've eaten quite a lot of bread pudding in my day but none of them were ever like this. The bread was topped with a caramelized crème brulée-esque layer of toasty sweetness and I've never experienced anything like it before. The bread within was like custard, warm and soft. Flavours of rich raisin, vanilla, and rum dance on the plate. This dessert is somehow decadent and humble at the same time. Easily one of the best bread puddings that I have ever had, it's a pretty special dessert. The Glass Monkey was lovely and I do hope to return when the weather is conducive to patio hangouts. I found this restaurant to be an unexpected surprise - I would never have assumed that a restaurant as good as this would be tucked away in such an unassuming corner of the city. Plus the drinks actually have monkeys on them, people. Worth a visit!