Restaurant Review: Sugarbowl
SUGARBOWL 10922 88th Avenue ~ thesugarbowl.org Instagram: @sugarbowlcafe ~ Twitter: @sugarbowlcafe Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew
Sugarbowl just is Edmonton. There is not much of a better neighbourhood restaurant that encapsulates the feeling of this city. They opened in 1943 - that's right, 79 years ago!! If they don't know this city then who does? Located on the best little stretch of Garneau on the edge of the river valley, Sugarbowl is teeming with the feeling of community. Featured on the first season of You Gotta Eat Here!, this restaurant has been on everyone's radar for decades. They're probably most known for their breakfast/brunch which is why I visited on a Saturday morning. I arrived around 10:30am and there was already a wait. You definitely want to arrive early if you're looking for a quick table, however they do take reservations for dinner. Immediately recognizable, Sugarbowl's green striped awning is pretty iconic. They also have one of the best patios in the city out front when it's warmer. After a fairly reasonable wait, I was ushered into the warm and bustling atmosphere that is Sugarbowl. Beams of sunlight shine through the large garage-style doors (that open up to the street in the summer), the walls are entirely made of exposed brick, and there is always an interesting rotation of independent art hanging. Every table is packed, servers are moving around busily, and being in this space just feels good. It feels like the best of Edmonton. To start with a beverage I gravitated toward the House-Made Chai Latte ($3.50 for 9oz) and our friendly server was quick to take our order and to get everything started for us.
Hot and frothy, this chai was very enjoyable. I loved the warm spice flavour and I appreciated that it wasn't too sweet. This version is a million times better than the types of made-from-concentrate chais that you get at chain cafes. If there is one item that I will shout from the rooftops about, it's Sugarbowl's Cinnamon Bun ($5.00). And I know that I'm not alone on this one. It is absolutely one of the best food items available in Edmonton. Full stop.
It's always served with a knife sticking out of it and it always comes with containers of butter. This cinnamon bun is LEGENDARY. I don't even like cinnamon buns... But I love this cinnamon bun. It's huge. It's warm. It pulls apart and it melts in your mouth. Twisted layers of sticky cinnamon-sugar goodness, all wrapped within a pillowy soft dough. This is a very special item and I almost feel emotional about it because it symbolizes so much joy and happy memories to me. A visit to Sugarbowl is not complete without it. Get one to go if you must. For my main dish I had to choose their (very likely) most popular breakfast offering, Chicken & Waffles ($19.00). I used to be obsessed with their huevos rancheros although I remember them changing somehow at some point and not liking them as much. I definitely need to revisit them and check up on what they're like these days. But everyone knows that the chicken & waffles are famous at Sugarbowl and I needed in on that!
Chicken and waffles became a "thing" about a decade ago and they've maintained their desirability ever since. The one at Sugarbowl is nice because there are no bones in the chicken and it's very easy to eat. The waffle is light and fresh, cooked to a beautiful golden colour. The chicken is juicy and tender, fried to perfection, and I really appreciated how well-seasoned the batter is. So much flavour! The best part (okay, one of them) is the maple butter, which I dipped my bites directly into, as opposed to dumping the whole thing over top. I enjoyed the watermelon salsa for a little hit of bright freshness. These are solid chicken & waffles. There are lots of options in the C&W game and these ones will not leave you disappointed. I'm really looking forward to returning for dinner because it has been a really long time since I have done so. Sugarbowl is well known for their extensive beer selection and they carry Früli - which is forever what I picture in my hand when I think of myself at Sugarbowl in the evening. Their lamb burger is famous and they also do a buffalo chicken sandwich which speaks my language! Sugarbowl is one of those places that you come home to and it always makes my heart happy.
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