Restaurant Review: Sorrentino’s

SORRENTINO'S 10844 95th Street | sorrentinos.com Instagram: @sorrentinos_yeg Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew

If you try to think of the longest standing Italian restaurant in Edmonton, you will likely come up with Sorrentino's. Now an empire with six restaurants in the Edmonton area, three pizzerias, a cafe, cooking classes, catering, annual festivals, and tons of philanthropic work... Sorrentino's is a force. It all started with Carmelo Rago, who came to Canada from Italy as a child and opened Sorrentino's in 1979. It's now 44 years later and the restaurant group is certainly the largest and most recognizable Italian restaurant brand in the city. Edmonton Journal has named them the Best Italian Restaurant 2020 and Favourite Italian Restaurant 2022. No matter what corner of the city you happen to be in, Sorrentino's is likely there. I decided to pay them a visit on a Saturday evening and I specifically set my sights on the Little Italy location in the McCauley area. Of the six restaurants currently operating, this one is the oldest. All of the other restaurants boast massive, gleaming, modern dining rooms... But Little Italy remains humble. You can feel the roots of the business in the space. There are no more than ten tables in the dining room and as such, a reservation is necessary. The best part is that they have tried to keep the same atmosphere and food as the first year that they opened. It's genius, really, to operate a restaurant that fully captures and maintains the nostalgia of the brand. The building feels a bit like an Italian villetta in the countryside, with dark wooden beams and a fireplace in the center of the space as a focal point. It's warm, cozy, and feels special. Seated by the window, I could take in the room and feel the vibe of the history reverberating in the walls. I gazed over the wine list but in the end I asked if the bartender could make a Negroni ($9.95). There was no cocktail menu in sight, but I was fairly certain that they would be able to make me this classic Italian cocktail. Our server confirmed that they could indeed.

Made with gin, vermouth, Campari, and garnished with a slice of orange peel (I'm pretty sure this one was served with a slice of lemon instead), this cocktail has become my go-to when I dine at Italian restaurants. I find that the slightly bitter flavour balances well and cuts through the heaviness of Italian foods, similar to how I love to drink a can of Brio when I eat a pizza. It wasn't the best negroni that I've ever had, but this no-fuss version delivered the flavour notes that I was hoping for. A basket of warm bread and butter was also delivered to the table and I settled in happily for a delicious carb-filled journey. An antipasti was a must and all of the classics are on the menu; from bruchetta to arancini. However, I was in the mood for the Calamari Fritti ($16.00). Something easy to share and fun to eat.

First of all, I loved the plate that this dish was served on because it was refreshingly adorable! We squeezed the lemon over top and began to dunk the crispy rings of squid into the sauce. Delizioso! The calamari was cooked to absolute perfection, which can be tricky sometimes. The meat was tender and not at all rubbery. The fried batter coating was light and crispy without being too heavy. I loved the zesty tomato sauce but I wouldn't exactly call it "spicy." It's so interesting that in Greece this same dish is served with tzaziki. In Spain it's allioli. In Italy; sugo. All of these Mediterranean countries have their own similar versions and each are wonderful. I wanted to bring some freshness to the meal and looked to the insalate section for the answer. While I was very close to ordering the caesar (made with anchovy dressing as per tradition) I had to go with the Bocconcino ($14.00 for full size) because it's one of my favourites. In retrospect, I probably should have ordered the sorrentino salad because it's named after the restaurant itself.

Beautifully plated and wonderfully fresh, I loved the bright slices of roma tomatoes. This salad is like eating in an Italian garden and the mild slices of bocconcini complimented the dish well. The olive oil and balsamic really punched this simple dish up in a delightful way. My only complaint is that I felt that the dried oregano was a bit heavy-handed and instead I could have used a bit more coarse salt. When it came to my main dish it had to be pasta. It just had to be. There are hearty dishes on the menu that include several preparations of veal, chicken, and even braised beef short ribs, but I had to choose one of the delicious pasta preparations. There are nine different options to select from and for me, it had to be the Gnocchi Gorgonzola ($24.00 for full size). All of the pasta dishes (and the salads as well) are available in full or half sizes, which I think adds a great way to customize your meal and also helps to accommodate your level of appetite.

This dish was the star of the evening in my opinion. Without a doubt, I favour Italian-style gnocchi (over the very soft Parisian version) because I prefer the slightly denser, more toothsome texture. These ones were just right. At first glance, the portion size seemed a little small but this rich dish is deceiving! If anything, they might be serving too much! The decadent sauce is velvety-smooth and the use gorgonzola is done to perfection - not too heavy but just enough to get the wonderful, sharp flavour of the cheese. I couldn't stop eating this if I wanted to. I cleared the plate. I'm not sure how I found room for dolci but I had to try the Pope's Pillow ($12.00) almost based on the name alone.

This dessert was good because it was decently light and easy to share after a big, filling meal. The layers of crisp, fluffy pastry wrapped around the sweet and delicious custard and was accented by juicy blueberries and chocolate. Ours didn't seem to have powdered sugar on top but cinnamon instead, and the berries weren't "mixed" as there were only blueberries. I enjoyed this as a sweet bite to end the meal. Sorrentino's is more than a restaurant - it's an empire. They're an identity for Italian cuisine in Edmonton and they have certainly paved the way for the many others that have come after them. The food is delicious and the quality speaks for itself. I love that each of the six restaurants features its own unique culinary experience to try. The Sorrentino's legacy and community involvement is something that will live on in this city for many, many years to come.