Restaurant Review: Riverbank Bistro

RIVERBANK BISTRO

8 Mission Avenue, St. Albert | riverbankbistro.ca

Instagram: @riverbankbistro

Co-Diner: The Husband

Located along the Sturgeon River in a gorgeous Victorian-style house in St. Albert sits Riverbank Bistro. Known for classic Canadian fare with a modern twist, this restaurant has been around since 2017 and has been St. Albert's most coveted date night spot ever since. Chef and owner Dan Ducharme has been in the game for a long time and his culinary vision is allowed to shine within Riverbank's historic walls. Using ingredients from the best local producers; such as seafood from Effing Seafoods (Rob is everyone's favourite fishmonger), whatever sparks inspiration at the St. Albert Farmers' Market, and of course beef and cheese from a producer that requires no introduction; Lakeside Farmstead, the plates at Riverbank Bistro promise fresh comfort food with an elevated air. In fact, it was Jeff Nonay (a name synonymous with quality) of Lakeside Farmstead who arranged for my dinner and I couldn't have been more excited to taste his famed products, prepared under Chef Ducharme's expertise. I visited on a Saturday evening and you certainly cannot miss the iconic building that Riverbank Bistro resides in. With its burgundy exterior and dramatic spires, this converted estate now contains several businesses, one of them being the restaurant. Perched along the river, you will be treated to idyllic views to accompany your meal. The inside of the dining room is refreshed and modern while carefully maintaining the original character that makes the building so special. Expect charcoal-wrapped banquettes, rustic wood, and statement lighting. Whisked to our comfortable table, it wasn't long before each and every other seat within view was occupied and the room was filled with the din of happy diners. Our server was exceedingly prompt and professional, revealing that we would be treated to a special five-course chef's table experience. I absolutely could not wait to get started. Chef Ducharme himself made the time to greet us at our table, narrowly escaping the intensity of his busy kitchen. He managed to personally deliver our dishes, describing each one and its ingredients with care. What a unique privilege! I'm a cocktail girl and had to begin my adventure with a Strawberry Vanilla Mojito ($16.00), prepared by the skilled barstaff.

Fresh strawberries, Bumbu rum, vanilla liqueur, mint, lime.

Perfect to sip on while reminiscing on the summer that just was, I enjoyed this fresh and fruity take on a classic. Muddled strawberries and mint leaves mixed playfully with the flavours of vanilla and lime. Just my kind of drink! The first course to arrive was a showstopper; Quahog Clams sourced by St. Albert's own Effing Seafoods.

Served in a kimchi broth that was made with sun-dried tomato and saffron then dotted with emerald-coloured chive oil, this dish was bursting with big umami flavour! The portion consisted of a generous number of clams, each one large and juicy. However, it was the perfectly executed broth that I could have lived in. The provided triangles of sourdough were necessary for sopping up every last delicious drop. Next to arrive was a beautiful Fall Risotto, showcasing the best ingredients of the season.

This unique risotto was made with a grain similar to barley or farro instead of traditional Arborio rice. Not only did this create an innovative and Canadian twist on a classic dish but the larger grains delivered a rustic plate. Each bite was chewy and nutty which was highlighted perfectly by the bright orange pieces of tender kabocha squash throughout. Mustard and sunflower seed added texture, while the housemade chicken jus (inspired!) brought decadence. The pickled components went a far way to achieve balance. Delicate curls of greens sat atop it all along with a sprinkling of Alpine cheese from Lakeside Farmstead. Each bite was rich and delicious, taking the concept of a warm fall comfort dish and elevating it to something thoughtful and elegant. Truly autumn in Alberta on a plate. The third course consisted of a Strawberry Sorbet palate cleanser which was a great way to pause and refresh the meal after the starter courses.

Served with lemon zest and basil, the perfectly spherical scoop was sitting in a small pool of extra virgin olive oil. Beautifully fragrant, this sorbet was ultra creamy with very few ice crystals. A perfect match to my Strawberry Vanilla Mojito cocktail as well! Then it was time for the main dishes and they were more than what we could have wished for! Two gorgeous, high-quality, well-marbled, Nonay Strip Loin Steaks, each cooked to a medium-rare perfection. Each plate was accompanied by Lakeside Farmstead Fromage Blanc mash (their beef and cheese on one plate - chef's kiss!), sautéed spinach and mushrooms, and a black garlic jus. The really cool part was that each steak had been dry-aged for a different amount of time and it was very neat to taste and compare the difference that 40 days makes. First up is the 80 Day Dry-Aged Strip Loin Steak.

Visually, it was very evident that this steak looked brighter and more ruby-toned. This is the steak that you dream to be served in a restaurant - high-quality meat that is cooked exactly to order. The meat was extremely tender and juicy. I loved the flavourful char on the outside (enhanced by the dry-aging) and drizzling more black garlic jus over top only amplified the entire experience. Second was the 120 Day Dry-Aged Strip Loin Steak.

Darker in colour, this steak featured a drier, firmer texture. The dry aging process enhances both the steak's flavour and texture by exposing it to controlled air which dehydrates the meat to concentrate its natural beefy taste. The result of this practice was very evident in the 120 day steak as the meat was much more flavourful compared to its 80 day counterpart. I remarked that this steak had a more fermented and subtly funky flavour which I loved. I can see why older steaks hold greater value because the boldness in flavour is really quite remarkable. The velvety mash was laced so deliciously with Fromage Blanc and the strong cheese flavour came through really nicely but didn't take away from the experience of the meat. The black garlic jus was very special, adding just the right pungency - in fact, we were even brought a little serving vessel that contained more of the jus so that we could use more to taste. Easily one of the best steak experiences that I have ever had in a province that is celebrated for its prized beef! Chef Ducharme also recommended that we enjoy the steak with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. While I am not an expert in wine, I could certainly appreciate how well the beef and wine complimented each other.

I enjoyed this glass of red wine because it wasn't too dry or bitter - qualities that I do not favour. Lastly, the dessert course which was Panna Cotta with a Red-Wine Poached Pear on top.

The rich panna cotta made with cream and buttermilk from Lakeside Farmstead was speckled with vanilla bean. It was very creamy but also somehow light. The dish really showcased the effortless simplicity of the Bosc pear, its flavour amplified by the poaching. Toasted almonds finished the dessert with a desirable texture.

I loved how cohesive this menu became, even down to each dish echoing aspects of other parts of the menu throughout. The thought that was put into each plate was not lost on me and Chef Ducharme's skill and care was evident in every course that was served. The pacing of this meal was excellent because we never felt rushed and our courses never piled up. There was room to breathe and the whole experience was relaxed, giving each dish its own turn to be fully appreciated. Each course was my favourite... Until I tasted the next one. Riverbank Bistro is the type of restaurant that you visit for special occasions. It's an ideal date night spot and this was proven by the many couples enjoying a night out together. But Riverbank is also a restaurant that remains unpretentious in nature, promising regional dishes in a comfortable setting. I absolutely loved my visit and it was certainly one of the best meals that I've eaten this year. I am grateful to Jeff Nonay for setting this up - he's such a food icon in the Edmonton area and the quality of his products speak for themselves. I loved seeing his cheese and beef showcased so exquisitely in this meal. Riverbank Bistro deserves to be on the top of everyone's to-do list because you certainly won't be disappointed by their celebration of local ingredients. Thank you for having me!