Restaurant Review: RGE RD
An urban gathering place where the farm dictates the menu. This is what RGE RD has been showcasing, now in their eighth year. When they first opened in Westmount they took over the space from another beloved high-end restaurant; The Blue Pear. Many were sad to see them go, as they were one of the few restaurants offering a tasting menu and food at an elevated level at the time. No longer the case, RGE RD and many others have transformed the shape of Edmonton's culinary scene, the 2010s being somewhat of a renaissance period. Years later, RGE RD is still one of the hottest restaurants in the city and they have truly come into their own. Alive with exciting and fresh ideas, Chef Blair Lebsack welcomes guests to "eat off the beaten path." The restaurant offers an à la carte menu as well as a tasting menu, hosts special farm dinner events, is introducing an upcoming "vine club," and has now opened their own whole-animal butcher shop next door known as The Butchery (try their sandwiches!). It is evident that what is currently happening at RGE RD is a dream realized. Surprising no one, all of the top lists in the country have nothing but rave reviews for RGE RD. enRoute magazine landed them at #4 on Canada's Best New Restaurants 2014. VUE Weekly voted them as #1 Best Fine Dining 2018. CBC Edmonton's Best Restaurants 2019 named them as Best Restaurant of the Decade. Edmonton Journal called them the Best Farm to Table 2020. And of course they have made appearances on the top ranking in the country; #48 on Canada's 100 Best Restaurants 2015, #68 on Canada's 100 Best Restaurants 2017, and #42 on Canada's 100 Best 2021. It's nice to see that even over the years, RGE RD has only managed to expand and innovate. This is not a restaurant that has sat still, remaining in the comfort of the status quo. Their ideas have only grown and expanded. My first visit to RGE RD was in September of 2013, not long after their opening. Almost exactly eight years later I made my return on a Saturday evening, eager to "catch up" with the place. Reservations are a must, as was evident by the fact that every single table remained occupied throughout our visit. The interior hasn't changed, which felt comforting to me. You still enter through a hallway and are met with what can only be described as an old farmhouse. It's such a clear visual representation of RGE RD that ties in so perfectly with all parts of their dining experience. The room is full of dimly lit Edison bulbs and there is re-purposed wood as far as the eye can see. Attention to detail is evident in the old-timey farm equipment that has now been fashioned into light fixtures. When they first opened, this type of decor felt groundbreaking. While this type of rustic atmosphere is far from unique these days, it still feels special at RGE RD. Our server was experienced, knowledgeable, and professional, yet also laid-back and approachable. The service is a well-oiled machine and we never found ourselves waiting for attention. The feature cocktail, known as a Grumpy Moose ($15.00) was described and it sounded like the perfect seasonal accompaniment to the meal ahead.
Made with Rupert's rye, crab apple syrup, Campari, and citrus, this cocktail took the fall flavour of apple and turned it into something fresh and bright. I enjoyed the bitter sweetness, a beverage that felt playful and not too serious. Everyone in the room was drinking these and I was pleased to be one of them. The food concept at RGE RD is sophisticated and mature while sticking diligently to their core focus; whole animal butchery, wood fire cookery and produce from local terroir. Sourcing ingredients according to best practices and sustainability, it's a wonderful culinary celebration of everything that our province has to offer. The à la carte menu is well-rounded, including small plates and mains. (My favourite is the Questionable Bits which usually features organ meats. Probably my favourite thing to order.) However, on this occasion my sights were set solely on The Road Trip ($99.00 per person). The restaurant asks that you let their award-winning kitchen take the wheel. It's a multi-course, blind-tasting adventure with dishes ranging from farm classics to modern and experimental. This is, by far, one of my favourite ways to experience food. I was beyond ready to start this journey. First to arrive was an amuse-bouche of sorts, a small plate to whet the apatite that consisted of grilled broccoli, pickled broccoli stem, hazelnut mascarpone, and garlic dill oil.
Light and lovely, I enjoyed the flavourful char on the broccoli. I found the cubed and pickled broccoli stem to be especially interesting and appreciated the multiple uses of the same vegetable. The textures were wonderful with the velvety mascarpone and satisfying crunch from the hazelnuts. A nice fresh start. Next was a fully vegan course that arrived on a gorgeous plate. White bean hummus, smoked cauliflower, grilled chanterelles, chili oil, and toasted buckwheat.
The smoked cauliflower was deliciously stunning and had everyone in the restaurant swooning. Paired perfectly with the creamy hummus, this was a smoky match made in heaven. I loved the use of seasonal chanterelle mushrooms, their nutty flavour harmonizing effortlessly with the crunchy buckwheat. Plus edible flower petals on top! A true lesson that a vegan dish should never be counted out - I love that RGE RD took the opportunity to show this. The next dish of the feast was a fish course, something that I certainly appreciated in landlocked Alberta. Sablefish, carrot sauce, fermented peppercorn, puffed coriander seeds, and licorice oil.
Sablefish, otherwise known as black cod, is one of my favourite types of fish to eat because of its buttery, melt-in-your-mouth quality. This one was no different and I loved the deliciously crispy skin. The bright orange creamy carrot bath matched the fish so well. The most interesting component of the dish were the puffed seeds which were puffed almost like popcorn. What a fun texture to incorporate! This dish (every dish!) featured such an expert presentation of textures, colours, and a mix of thoughful flavours - this is truly where RGE RD shines. They're doing a lot without overdoing it. By this point I was noticing that the pacing of the meal was done very well. We were never waiting too long for our next plate, however there was just enough time to digest and take a breath. Next up was a pasta course which consisted of corn ravioli stuffed with corn mascarpone, cornmeal sauce, radish sauce, with pickled radish on top. Plus we were served bread with a lemon, parsley and tarragon butter.
I found the exciting use of seasonal corn in the pasta dish to be so interesting. It was corn on corn on corn but it didn't feel that way. The entire dish only used like two ingredients, all prepared in ten different ways. Something like this takes skill. The ravioli was cooked to perfection and the luscious filling paired well with the two sauces. Simple, yet incredibly complex. The bread was a welcome sight, although I found that the baguette itself was a bit too cakey for my taste. That didn't stop me from devouring it though. The compound butter was very flavourful and I slathered it liberally to each slice of bread. I was trilled when the next item was a sorbet course, something that I always enjoy as a palate cleanser. This one was what I believe to have been a passionfruit sorbet with gin gel on top.
I might be wrong about the passionfruit but it certainly had a similar tart and sweet flavour. Cool and refreshing, this bite was the perfect way to reset before the final main dish. Lastly, we had arrived at the big meat course which involved a bison strip loin, barley salad, apple, and jus.
This gorgeous piece of ruby-coloured bison was cooked to a medium-rare perfection. The generous portion was wonderfully tender while still having a decent bite to it. I loved everything below the meat as well. The barley salad and bits of apple were simple with an accent of crispy fried kale. And the acidity from the jus did a great job of balancing all of the flavours. For a big protein dish, it wasn't too heavy at all. Simple ingredients and expert execution. Finally, there was dessert. A creamy apple espuma encasing a cake with a burnt tuile on top.
Unlike any dessert that I've ever had before, I'm finding it difficult to find the words to describe this one. Incredibly light, a creamy, airy, apple-flavoured foam enveloped a small cake. The cake on the inside was moist and somehow sat suspended in the middle of a cloud. The tuile on top reminded me of the top layer on a crème brulée. This was a new and delightful experience. An ideal finishing move. RGE RD is typically thought of as a pretty meat-centric restaurant, what with the whole nose-to-tail concept and all. However, I was pretty pleased to see that their tasting menu didn't lean heavily on meats. This menu showed everything that they are capable of, which includes proficiency in a wide range of dishes. In my opinion, RGE RD has found their stride. They have reinvented themselves enough to stay fresh, while continuing to maintain the level of care and quality that made them special in the first place. Easily one of the best restaurants in the city. If you haven't paid them a visit in a while, now is the time.
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