Restaurant Review: Luna Cocina Mexicana

LUNA COCINA MEXICANA 9880 63rd Avenue | lunamexicanrestaurant.ca Instagram: @lunamexicanrestaurant | Twitter: @HumaComfort Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew + Ms. Thibault

This might get a little bit confusing but Luna used to be called Huma. Huma opened in 2015 and quickly rose to be one of the most favoured Mexican restaurants in the city. Then, quite suddenly and for no apparent reason, Huma closed. However, the closure was brief and the restaurant re-opened as the newly reborn Luna. Same location, practically the same menu, same chef. (Chef Mariel!) I'm not sure what mysterious circumstances lead to all of this but I do know that the restaurant is open once again and thriving! The Edmonton Journal named Luna the Best Mexican Restaurant 2020 and for a city with many different Mexican options this says quite a lot. I visited on a Saturday evening and joined the rest of their customers in the packed house. Located on a busy corner in Hazeldean, one would likely not assume that such a good Mexican restaurant exists in a strip mall with traffic buzzing by. But it does, and you can't possibly miss their bright purple awning and signage. The vibrancy carries to the inside, where you are met with a colourful feast for the eyes. Everywhere that you look is something bright and beautiful to see. My favourite part of the decor might be the massive and gorgeous mural that features many creatures, best of all being Chef Mariel herself riding an axolotl. (It might not be Chef Mariel but I've decided that it is.) Beyond the mural, there's a monochrome hot pink feature wall full of interesting Mexican knickknacks. I also really love the sparkling star-shaped pendent lighting in the center of the room. Really, wherever you look there is something interesting to see. The care and detail that went into creating this space is over the top. It's really special. Seated at our table, our friendly server was extremely attentive even though literally every table in the restaurant became occupied during our visit. You could tell that there were a large number of regulars and that there was a mutual familiarity in the air among the customers. People love Luna and it's their place. To drink, you know that they've got beer like Corona and Sol and that margaritas are number one. (I'm getting a margarita next time for sure!) But they also serve Horchata ($4.50) which is my non-alcoholic favourite and I needed to try Luna's version.

Served in a nice big glass, this might have been some of the best horchata that I've ever tasted. Flavoured with rice, cinnamon, vanilla, and almonds, this horchata was creamy and full of flavour. The nuttiness and hint of spice really came though! Certainly not watered down, this is the horchata that you need in your life. Three different types of salsa were also delivered to our table to use with... Anything. All of it! Roja, Verde, and Habanero. Two were green and one was red, each featuring a different level of spice. All delicious. The starter section of the menu is full of things that you want to eat. It's kinda difficult to choose only one. I noted the queso fundido which reminded me of a trip that I took to Mexico with friends where we all became obsessed with ordering the very same dish. However, the most famous item on Luna's menu as got to be the Chicharrón de Queso ($20.00) which might be one of the most impressive things that you'll ever see.

A giant cornucopia of crispy cheese. Served with pico de gallo and guacamole.

This thing must be seen to be believed. When you notice this dish traveling around the room and being delivered to other tables it's the sort of visual that makes you say "what is that?!" First of all, it's huge. One of my co-diners called it the "cheese arm" because you could literally slide your entire arm into the cheese tube. You know how when you're cooking a grilled cheese sandwich and the best part is when some of the cheese gets all fried and crispy on the pan? That's what this entire thing is. They have harnessed the power of what everyone actually wants in a cheese experience and it is being delivered. I've never seen anything like it before but let me tell you, ripping off chunks of crispy cheese and using it like a chip to scoop up perfectly-made guacamole and pico de gallo was an absolutely satisfying experience. Most of the cheese was very crispy but sometimes I'd hit little areas that still contained some chew. Definitely a dish to share, this thing is every cheese-lovers dream. I really liked that part of the menu is dedicated to Mexican street food and I really wanted to sample something from this section. This is where you'll find the Mexican corn that so many of us love. I decided to try the Taco Arabe ($7.00).

Marinated pork cooked on the traditional Trompo (upright grill), shaved onto a flour tortilla. Served with Salsa de Chipotle and lime.

My first thought upon seeing this dish was "that's it?" But then I tasted it and the simplicity of it all made sense. A trompo cooks the meat on a vertical spit, similarly to the way that shawarma or donair is cooked. So you can imagine that shaving off succulent, juicy, caramelized pieces of meat onto a basic tortilla is actually all that it really needs to be. The meat was completely delicious and speaks for itself. I loved getting a bit of lime and chipotle in the mix. I get it. I get why this dish needs to be nothing more than what it is. You should know that there is a burrito on the menu called the YEGrande and it is in fact very grande. There are also a lot of tacos on the menu - 15 different types! For me, I loved the "From Abuela's Kitchen" part of the menu because if anyone knows what they're doing, it's abuela. The Pastel Azteca ($19.75) sounded extremely unique and I've certainly never seen anything like it on any other menu before.

Imagine a "Mexican lasagna." Layers of seasoned chicken, chile poblano, mushrooms, zucchini and corn between tortilla, salsa verde and melted cheese. Topped with crema and avocado. Served with salad.

Again, Luna was showing me something that I'd never experienced and it was impressive. I loved everything about this unique dish! Each bite was packed with deliciously tender chicken (so much chicken!) and gooey cheese. The vegetables added a nice layer of added texture while the salsa and crema brought a ton of flavour and wrapped everything into a deliciously creamy mouthful. This plate is very special and must be tasted. I also loved the bright little side salad and raw vegetables which did a great job of adding freshness. It would be difficult not to order this every single time but with so many other great-sounding items on the menu, I think that I'm going to have to force myself to branch out!! Lastly, my favourite Latin dessert was top-of-the-list on the dessert menu, so obviously Tres Leches ($9.00) was going to happen.

I'm no stranger to a tres leches but I have never seen various flavours offered. On my visit they had a peach version and a mocha version. I chose the mocha although I could see the peach one being wonderful as well. Similar to the horchata, this very well might have been some of the best tres leches cake that I've ever had. It was just so well done and expertly executed! The cake was simultaneously sponge-like while being completely soaked in leche. Only, it held up to the moisture so well. The layers of icing infused with coffee flavour were bold and exciting. Every aspect of this cake worked in harmony and I can think of no better place to try a tres leches in this city. I realize that this review is pretty ravey but Luna deserves it. There was literally no part of the meal that I was unhappy with; from the ambiance, to the service, to the simply delicious food. Each dish was at the top of its game and everywhere that I looked I was finding improved versions of classics. It's like they've taken dishes that everyone is familiar with and have found new ways to make them more interesting and more delicious. I loved how unique, unexpected, and innovative the food was, all while still remaining humble. This is the best Mexican restaurant in Edmonton and I want Luna to be my place.