Restaurant Review: Langano Skies
LANGANO SKIES 9920 82nd Avenue ~ langanoskies.com Instagram: @langanoskies ~ Twitter: @LanganoSkies Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew
Ethiopian food can be a bit intimidating when you first try it - at least that's how I felt when I visited Langano Skies for the first time back in 2009. But you know what else happened? I grew obsessed with the deliciousness and and unique nature of this cuisine. Langano Skies has remained a benchmark for what I believe the best Ethiopian food should taste like and they've become one of my favourite restaurants. You'll find them in the Worldwide Faves section of this blog. You'll also find them as VUE Weekly's #1 Best African 2018 (as well as every other year before that) and Edmonton Journal's Best African Restaurant 2020 and Best Ethiopian Restaurant 2020. Now a mainstay in Edmonton, this Strathcona institution has earned it's place in the city's culinary scene. Not even a devastating fire in 2011 (which I certainly feared might be the end) could keep them down. Owned and operated by Amsale and Paul Sumamo, if you've never tried Langano Skies, now is the time. I visited on a Saturday evening after years away and was so thrilled to make my return. The giant murals of African scenes on the walls, the sky and cloud painted ceiling, and the Moseb on each table (a communal tray woven like a colourful decorative basket)... I missed the feeling of the space very much and was so happy to see that not a thing had changed. Our friendly server was on top of anything that we needed and I was eager to taste the amazing flavours that I had so missed. First, I always order the Ethiopian Caesar ($7.50). I love a caesar and throwing an Ethiopian twist onto it only sounds like it'll be more fun.
I love this caesar! Not only is it just a great caesar in itself but the Ethiopian spices around the rim make it extra delicious and special. I asked for mine to be made "medium spicy" and they were happy to oblige. The menu can be a bit overwhelming if you've never tried this type of food before but my recommendation is to just wing it. As a novice, you might be unsure of "what's good" or what you're "supposed to get." Ask the server for recommendations if you are feeling truly lost. After a few visits you'll know what your favourites are. Ethiopia is the only African country that has never been colonized, therefore the food has essentially remained uninfluenced by other countries. As such, the cuisine retains its unique taste, style and tradition. There are no forks, knives, or any flatware at all. Everything is eaten with your hands. (This is similar to the way that you eat Indian food using naan bread.) My favourite appetizer on the menu is the Sambusa with Lentils ($3.50). A sambusa is very much like a samosa - even their names are pretty close. Essentially, it's a triangular pastry available with different types of fillings.
I've tried Langano Skies' meat and vegetable sambusas as well and the lentil one is my favourite. Served piping hot, you pick the sambusa up with your hands and dive in. You try not to burn yourself but you can't stop eating. This little golden pocket blows me away with its deliciousness every time. So much great flavour in such a small package! The tender lentils almost have a bit of a garlicy seasoning to them and the pastry is perfectly crispy. A must on every visit. I would also like to try the Kategna on my next visit, injera covered in a delectable spread. I need to get some new items into my mix! You might notice that many of the dishes at Langano Skies are actually quite vegetarian-based. They do offer plenty of meat dishes to choose from but I do get the sense that leaning more veg is what you're supposed to aim for. The food arrives quickly when ordered, served on a massive round platter. Get ready for some wots and tibs people! First, let's talk about injera. Injera is like the Ethiopian equivalent to Indian naan. However, it is nothing like naan. A sour fermented flatbread with a slightly spongy texture, it's like if sourdough, a crumpet, and a crepe had some kind of weird three-way baby. Rolls of them come stacked up on a plate and we joked that they looked like little towels. Not only is Ethiopian food eaten with injera as a utensil but it is served on it as well. It's the base of every meal. Diners eat around a communal tray, tearing off pieces of injera and using it to scoop up the food. The whole experience is a special one. The different dishes include; beef, poultry, lamb, and vegetarian varieties and I stuck to all of my favourites on this visit because I missed it all so much. The Yebeg Tibs ($22.50) and the Atekilt Aletcha Wot ($19.50) are my two go-tos.
Yebeg Tibs is a lamb dish that involves lamb sautéed with onions, tomatoes, jalapenos and Nitir Kibeh (a spiced clarified butter). Seasoned with a rich blend of herbs and spices. Meanwhile, the Atekilt Aletcha Wot is a vegetarian dish that is made with sliced carrots, potatoes and cabbage cooked with onions, garlic and curry. Everything always comes with a lovely and bright little side salad. After not having visited in quite a few years, I noted right away that the portion sizes seemed larger. Apart from that, everything looked exactly as I remembered it. Lamb is one of my favourite proteins, so choosing it over beef or chicken is a no-brainer for me. The pieces of lamb were juicy and well-seasoned and I love the spicy jalapeno which gives the dish a little kick. However, the vegetarian dish is my all-time favourite thing at Langano Skies. Tender cabbage and potatoes are tossed in a delicious mix of buttery curry that seeps right through the injera. You might end up dreaming about this dish like I do. I even love the side salad because it's incredibly fresh and the dressing is acidic and zippy - it almost serves as a palate cleanser and is quite successful. The porous injera is warm, soft, and full of delicious, tangy sourdough flavour. Everything is bright and alive with big flavours and tradition. While I'm a bit set in my ways and tend to order the same things every time, I really do need to branch out and try some new items. Although, I was just happy to return and taste the dishes that I love once again. Too full for dessert, we decided to skip it. However, I would really love to try the freshly roasted Ethiopian coffee that they serve in a traditional clay coffee pot. I have learned that coffee ceremonies are an important cultural element in Ethiopia and I would like to experience that more. Langano Skies is a solid restaurant that has stood the test of time. If you've never visited, you absolutely should. I promise that it's not as intimidating as you might think. If you haven't visited in a while, there is no time like the present to get reacquainted. I was so pleased to find that this restaurant is alive and well, still serving the exceptional quality of food that I had come to love many years ago.