Restaurant Review: Dorinku Osaka

DORINKU OSAKA STREET FOOD

10328 Jasper Avenue | osaka.dorinku.ca Instagram: @dorinkuosaka

Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew + Mr. Salloum & Mr. Lorenz

Edmonton has no shortage of izakaya-style Japanese restaurants and there are now plenty of amazing spots to choose from. I've visited Dorinku's Tokyo counterpart on Whyte Ave many times (you can read my review here) but somehow the Osaka restaurant has eluded me. I absolutely love the idea of Dorinku's two restaurants; one Downtown and one in Old Strathcona, each catering to the cuisine of their respective cities in Japan. I was expecting to see some crossover dishes between their menus but was also hoping for some uniquely regional ones as well. Dorinku Osaka was named as a Don’t Skip the Dishes Here restaurant in CBC Edmonton's Best Restaurants 2019 list and EDify Magazine called them the Best Japanese Restaurant 2023. I was excited to head Downtown on a Saturday evening to take a short trip to Osaka (flight not necessary). Parking is always trickier downtown but if you're lucky you'll be able to grab a street spot right out front. This restaurant feels larger and more spacious compared to its Tokyo sibling. The focal point is the massive bar in the center of the room, complete with a noki-gawara style roof reminiscent of Osaka Castle. The dining room is brighter at the front where natural light pours through the sakura branches and moodier toward the back where the izakaya vibe truly takes hold. I had heard that this location employs a robot server which I was looking forward to seeing in action but it never appeared. When I think of Osaka my mind goes directly to the iconic Dotonbori area and I almost wish that this restaurant embodied a bit more of that particular mayhem and wackiness. My group was seated right in the front which was lovely and the design of wooden slats with a circular opening in the window was particularly memorable. The menu encompasses much of what an izakaya should: drinks and snacks! But there is much more on offer as well; from sushi to bowls. Dorinku Osaka also stays open until at least 11pm on Friday and Saturday evenings to cater to the night life crowd and even offers a special late night menu (let's be real, everyone just wants those Shaka Shaka Fries). On my visit there was a features menu which included a feature cocktail called the Wabi-Sabi ($16.00). I had to try it! However, the Sakura cocktail from the Signature Seven menu would've been an easy second choice.

Plantation rum, amaro Montenegro, Aperol, pineapple liqueur, lime, honey wasabi syrup, milk wash.

I loved this beverage!! Complete with a single, perfectly-formed ice cube, this drink was fruity yet adult. The complex flavour bounced from sweet to tart plus there was also a hint of wasabi heat in there. I was really enamoured with this cocktail and the level of expertise involved in creating it. Our friendly server took our order and I certainly knew that we ordered way too much! It was difficult not to with so many enticing dishes to try! There are two specific dishes that come to mind when I think of food from Osaka; one of them being Takoyaki ($8.80) which I ordered immediately from the Hot Snack & Sharables part of the menu. The other dish is okonomiyaki which I was shocked not to find on the menu. Seems like a pretty short-sighted omission for an Osaka-themed restaurant.

6 pieces, katsu sauce, kewpie mayo, bonito flakes, aonori.

For me, the dancing bonito on top is key! These takoyaki were excellent! It's pretty easy to end up with really mushy takoyaki (including in Japan) and to me, the texture of these ones were just right. The outside was fried to perfection allowing for a really nice and toothsome crunch. I wonder if they achieved this by deep-frying instead of using a takoyaki-ki. The inside was soft but not too much so, concealing a piece of octopus inside. All of the delicious toppings really make the dish. It's very easy to keep popping these tasty little orbs into your mouth. Sushi was going to be a must. Dorinku Osaka specializes specifically in pressed sushi (oshizushi) which is prepared by using a wooden mold called an oshibako that firmly compresses the sushi into compact, geometric blocks. This creates a modern and stylized presentation that dazzles effortlessly. The Dorinku Sushi Set ($58.80) is a great way to try a bunch of different types! (Unless you order the full Osaka Bridge which is massive and incredibly impressive!)

Salmon Pressed Sushi, TNT Pressed Sushi, Scallop Pressed Sushi.

Tuna Tataki.

Served on a "smaller bridge" atop a bed of banana leaves, the presentation alone was something special. Starting with the Salmon Pressed Sushi (wild sockeye, avocado, creamy mayo sauce, teriyaki sauce, kaiware). I found myself pleasantly surprised with this one. I'm usually not a huge fan of the aburi preparation, where the top of the pressed sushi is flame-seared. (Maybe I'm too much of a purist?) But I really liked it in this case. The rich, smoky flavour worked beautifully with the salmon and other saucy components. The most simple of the sushi and maybe the best. Next was the Scallop Pressed Sushi (scallop, truffle mayo, fish roe) and this one can only be described as decadent! Each bite was creamy, from the tender scallop to the hint of luxury from the truffle mayo. Delicious. Finally, the TNT Pressed Sushi (Salmon Pressed Sushi with deep-fried shrimp, avocado, TNT sauce, sweet soy, tobiko, kaiware). This one is fun!! It takes the goodness from the regular salmon sushi and kicks it up with spice and a crunchy fried shrimp ball on top! I liked this sushi for the interesting texture and because it had a lot going on. A party in your mouth for sure! I was surprised that none of the pressed sushi on the regular menu at Dorinku Osaka is made with tuna. None at all! However, they do provide your tuna fix by including a plate of Tuna Tataki (chili dressing, sliced onion, kaiware) along side. I loved these perfectly-seared fuchsia slabs of tuna, each one dressed so flavourfully with a punch of heat. These were a joy to dig into throughout the meal. Moving to the Dorinku Favourites part of the menu, you always must throw some Shaka Shaka Fries ($8.80) into the mix! It's illegal not to!

Dorinku signature seasoning.

These fries get delivered to your table in a brown paper bag. The server then dumps their magical seasoning into the bag and shakes it all up. The contents get dumped onto a plate and voilà! The fries themselves are fine but nothing that will change your life. However, having the tasty seasoning coating each and every one turns them into something playful and easy to share. The other dish that really caught my eye is the Truffle Cream Udon ($18.80).

Truffle cream sauce, sautéed mushroom, bacon, green onion, sautéed onion, sous vide egg, served in a hot stone bowl.

Both Dorinku locations are known for their hot stone bowl offerings, served practically bubbling over. This dish sounds a lot like a carbonara but there's a different dish at Dorinku Tokyo which is actually called a "Carbonara" so I guess that this one isn't the same. The Truffle Cream Udon doesn't use cheese, which I suppose is the main variation. Tender cooked udon noodles are bathed in a velvety sauce and the combination of bacon and egg is classic and comforting. The piping hot, bubbling sauce is a lot like molten lava but don't let that stop you from slurping away! A really unique bowl of noodles that you won't find in many other places and a flawless combination of rich flavours. Circling back to the features menu, I was happy to find that Yakitori was available. I had heard that the robata dishes were excellent at Dorinku Osaka and nothing else epitomizes a street food style dish in my opinion. 3 Kinds Skewers ($12.00) included beef, chicken, and pork.

The meat on each one was tender, juicy, and fire-kissed - very fun to eat! Each one was also served with its own special condiments. The marinated galbi beef skewer was served with shichimi powder and a lemon slice - it was really neat to dip the skewer into the powder to coat the meat in even more flavour. The chicken skewer was served with nama-shichimi, yuzu-kosho, and a lemon slice. And finally, the pork belly skewer was served with steak sauce, green onion, and shredded pepper. We were given an additional dipping sauce on the side that was spicy and flavourful that I absolutely loved. For such a small package on little sticks, these skewers weren't messing around.

Dorinku Osaka is a wonderful dining option for Japanese food in the heart of downtown. The food is current and inventive while still respecting the roots of the cuisine. If I had to choose between the Osaka and Tokyo locations I might lean toward Tokyo because I find the decor even more striking and the food menu is somewhat larger as well. I bet that Dorinku Osaka is a really hip place to visit late at night and I can picture myself sipping on a cocktail while munching on snacks, waiting to see where the night might take me. ありがとう！