Restaurant Review: Continental Treat
CONTINENTAL TREAT FINE BISTRO 10560 82nd Avenue | ctfinebistro.com Instagram: @continentaltreatglutenfree_ Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew
One of Edmonton's (and especially Old Strathcona's) iconic restaurants, Continental Treat has been operating at its current location on Whyte Ave since 1982. That's 42 years! (I know the year 1982 well... It's when I was born. Ha ha.) Any restaurant with that kind of longevity is a mainstay. A reliable "forever" type of place that has stood the test of time - and believe me, it has been a test. Owned and operated by three generations of the Borówka family, their roots from Poland and Ukraine are reflected in the menu. They have even opened a second location downtown in recent years, expanding their comfort food empire twofold. So what is "continental" cuisine? By definition it's any food from Europe. And Continental Treat is prepared to feed you just like your European grandmother did. Voted Best/Favourite Continental Restaurant in 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023 by the Edmonton Journal, this restaurant's legacy lives on in the hearts of Edmontonians. The ambiance is palpable. Just walking by Continental Treat on any given evening, you will be delighted by a visual tableau of the most cozy and romantic restaurant that you have ever laid your eyes upon. Dim lighting, candle-lit tables, lovers holding hands and gazing into each other's eyes... That's what goes on here. I visited on a Saturday evening and was in the mood for a little bit of the CT magic. Their corner location allows for windows on both sides and the inside of the restaurant is packed with old-world charm. You'll find a lot of dark wood, perfectly set tables adorned with tablecloths, European art, and the aforementioned candle light. (We're talking wine bottles being used as candle holders with tons of wax dripping down the sides type of vibe.) It's exceedingly cozy with light jazzy piano music being played in the background. The space is certainly not modern in any sense but it feels right. Situated at a comfortable table in the middle of the dining room, I got myself acquainted with the martini list. There are some interesting options to choose from and I was curious about the Pink Squirrel ($14.95 for 2oz). It would be nice to see a "signature cocktail" or martini that reflects the restaurant and its cuisine a bit better (maybe it's the C-Tini, actually) but I am always happy to try something pink.
I loved this pretty, pink, girly drink and enjoyed it thoroughly! Did it look a bit like Pepto-Bismol? Yes (and we made jokes about it). But it tasted delicious (not too strongly boozy) and I loved the cherry-sweet flavour! It was almost like a dessert! This martini looked cute and I would definitely order it again. Our server was personable and friendly, staying on top of our every need for the duration of our visit. I'm glad that I made a reservation because it wasn't long before every single table was occupied. We were immediately served a warm basket of two types of bread (gluten-free!) and I helped myself to a slice of rye slathered in ample amounts of melty butter. If I had to pick the most famous item on the Continental Treat menu it would have to be the Creamy Dill Pickle Soup ($6.50 for a cup). I have ordered it every single time that I have dined here and I'm sure that many other people do the same.
This soup is a hit for a reason. If you had an Eastern European grandma (like I did) this will remind you of her soups. It's lighter than you think it will be and filled with nice big pieces of potatoes, pickles (of course!) and other vegetables. The pickle flavour is at the forefront but it isn't too much. (Let's be honest, it could never be too much for me). It's cozy comfort in soup form. In a city that boasts many amazing soups, this is certainly one of the top picks. You can even order a "Euro Bowl" which I think is a really big bowl of soup! No one would judge you - it would be the right call. There are also several other soups on the menu that sound amazing and if I could ever tear myself away from the pickle soup I would love to try the Red Barszcz or the Sauerkraut & Potato. Can we talk about the gluten-free aspect for a sec? Continental Treat wasn't always a "gluten-free restaurant." This change was brought to the menu in 2007 when the decision was made to embrace gluten-free cooking both to promote healthier eating as well as to provide wonderful European dishes to diners who have intolerances. The goal was to make food that is indistinguishable or superior to traditional gluten-containing products. And I have to say, eating that rye bread, I would never have known the difference. This makes me think of my Polish grandfather, who did indeed have celiac. He would have loved this place. I don't think of Continental Treat as a "gluten-free restaurant," I think of it as a European restaurant that happens to serve gluten-free food. You KNOW that Continental Treat is going to have Signature Gourmet Pierogies & Dumplings on their menu - it's a must and they are all handmade. Of the seven choices available (and some are really innovative and interesting! Think spicy curry chicken or pulled pork or beef brisket) I had to choose the Sauerkraut & Wild Mushroom Stuffed Pierogis ($21.95 for 6).
My grandmother used to make perogies with this exact same filling and so whenever I find them on any menu, I order them. These ones tasted like nostalgia. I love that you can tell that each perogy was made by hand with love - each one is the most beautiful, perfect little tender pouch. I really enjoyed that there was a lot of filling in each one and I was never searching for the contents. The sauerkraut was deliciously tart and the wild mushrooms offered a lovely earthiness. The caramelized onions on top were the ideal garnish. I was so happy to dunk my perogies in the provided mushroom sauce - this is exactly what my grandmother used to serve them with as well. This is one of my favourite dishes that Continental Treat has to offer by far. For my entree I easily selected the Duck Leg ($29.95) because duck (especially the leg) is my favourite protein. However, the menu boasts a huge list of classic European dishes ranging from schnitzel to goulash to stroganoff. It's basically all of the European food buzzwords that you've ever heard.
Unfortunately, this dish was a bit of a low point for me. The cook on the duck was excellent but it wasn't the same as say, a duck confit. (Not that I needed it to be the same.) While the meat was tender and fell off of the bone, I found it to be lacking in flavour. I could taste the wine in the demi-glace and there was a lot of sauce included which was nice, but I found that it didn't do much to bring a lot of interesting flavour. The potatoes were very basic, starchy, and didn't taste like much of anything. I was excited about the red cabbage, a German dish that I enjoy. But this version had a texture and an ingredient that I wasn't familiar with and again I found it to be missing the big flavour that I had expected. I suppose that I felt that this plate was too bland. It looked great and the potential seemed to be there but it fell flat for me. Lastly, The Treat. With a name like Continental Treat, you know that "the treat" has gotta be good! There are a lot of specialty coffees on the menu, including one called "Helena’s Coffee" that I really want to try sometime. There are also a lot of desserts including the strawberry & Nutella stuffed pierogis that sound like a really great idea! But let's be honest, the must-order dessert is the Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte ($13.95).
It's a straight-up black forest cake, you guys! In case you haven't noticed, this German cake has seen a total resurgence in the past few years. It's like everyone remembered that it existed, our nostalgia went wild, and now you can find versions of it everywhere! I am not mad about this development because again, this is something that I grew up with as a kid and that my grandparents loved. It was our family's "special occasion" cake. And the Continental Treat entry? It's absolutely wonderful. The cake itself has that little hint of dryness, which is a total characteristic of a German cake. The whipped cream was luscious. And the abundant kirsch cherries studded within were sweet and juicy. It was all very luxurious and well-executed! One of the best black forest cakes in the city! Continental Treat brings something to Old Strathcona and Whyte Ave that is irreplaceable and irreplicable. They're one of those cornerstone restaurants that anchor the community and shows us what it means to have a lasting legacy. Visiting this restaurant feels like returning home - in various senses of the word. If you haven't stopped in for a while, you definitely should. Get the soup. And the perogies. And the cake.
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