Restaurant Review: Baijiu
BAIJIU 10359 104th Street | baijiuyeg.com Instagram: @baijiu_yeg Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew along with Sarah, Andrew, Justine & Lennox
I think that Edmonton has realized that we (as a collective) like dim, moody, Asian-style bars because we certainly have a more-than-average amount of really good ones. Cool, vibey joints that feel a hint seedy (but aren't actually). To be clear, this should be a point of pride and I absolutely love the amount of unexpected diversity in our city's current culinary scene. One such place is Baijiu (the name of a Chinese liquor), a bustling Asian inspired cocktail bar and eatery. Emphasis on the cocktails! EDify Magazine named Baijiu Best Cocktails 2023 and it must be mentioned that this is where James Grant (World Class Global Bartender of the Year 2021 and Canada’s 100 Best Bartender of the Year 2022) tended bar for some five years. (He is now the Director of Mixology at the Fairmont Royal York in Toronto - but he's a proud Edmontonian who happens to be the most esteemed bartender in Canada.) Baijiu's location couldn't be better. They're Downtown, right in the heart of Edmonton's ICE District and on the 4th Street Promenade (which is honestly the best street downtown). You'll find Baijiu just across the street from not only Rogers Place but also the Neon Sign Museum which adds so much cool ambiance. The building itself, historical Mercer Warehouse, was built in 1911 so you know that it's packed with tons of character and charm (and ghosts and probably secret passageways). Did I mention that they also have a hidden speakeasy tucked away to the side called Little Hong Kong?? Because of course they do. I visited on a Sunday evening and felt very hip taking in the whole downtown cocktail scene. Baijiu is very atmospheric, trendy, dimly lit, and pleasantly casual. Their Asian-inspired food is meant to be shared amongst your loved ones which is why I visited with a nice little group (our table was even outfitted with a lazy susan for passing dishes around). You can bring minors along before 9pm and all of the food is 10% off on Sundays! Bonus! The long and skinny space does offer an outdoor patio to one side but the interior is where it's at. I loved the ancient rafters and brick, the popping floral wallpaper, and the framed images of rappers on the walls. I got comfortable in a leather-wrapped booth - the ideal perch for taking in the rest of the room. The focal point is absolutely the bar that stretches the length of the restaurant, boasting over 200 bottles on display, the most extensive in Edmonton. The music (also mainly rap) is loud, completing the whole sensory experience. It seemed obvious to me that ordering from the Baijiu Originals cocktail menu was maybe the most important thing that I was going to accomplish on my visit. There are a lot of unique and interesting choices; ranging from the Baijiu Barbie to the Chanel No. 6 and everything in between. These expertly-crafted cocktails use innovative ingredients and come in a rainbow of colours, most with a decidedly Asian flavour profile. After much debate, I selected the End of the Road ($17.00).
Garnished with coffee beans, this cocktail delight was so much more than a coffee-based beverage and it took me on a beautiful little journey. It wasn't too boozy and it was filled with complexity. I absolutely loved the subtle cherry and sesame notes. The robust flavour of coffee was certainly at the forefront but the drink was also creamy and nuanced. Certainly one of the most perfect cocktails that I've ever had in Edmonton. Baijiu also makes a Notorious B.I.G. Cocktail which is served large format style in a teapot meant for sharing. It's $65 and I would be so curious to see it for myself! For the food, I just ordered a lot of it. (You know how we do it around here!) Divided into categories like "smalls" and "biggie plates," I tried to grab a bit of everything. The servers who helped us were all super upbeat and friendly, seemingly having a good time which added to the overall great environment. First up were the Devilled Tea Eggs ($9.00) from the Smalls menu. I'm sure that I've said it before, but devilled eggs are having a huge moment right now. You can find them, in different variations, on all of the hot menus in town. I think that everyone has realized that nostalgic food is some of the best food.
First I need to say that I LOVED all of the plastic longevity dishware. This matched the theme so well and felt incredibly casual-Chinatown-cool. The eggs were so clever. It was like they took a marinated ajitama (ramen egg) but prepared it as a devilled egg instead. Genius! Instead of a jammy egg yolk, this was replaced by a creamy whipped-with-kewpie center that was bursting with flavour. Tons of texture from the crispy onions and scallions, the use of togarashi brought this whole dish home seamlessly. Also from the Smalls part of the menu, we had to try the Green Onion Mini Buns ($9.00). If you're an Edmontonian, you know.
Every self-respecting Chinese restaurant in Edmonton has a green onion cake on their menu or at least some version of one. It's the unofficial dish of our city, after all. Baijiu's take on the matter is pretty fun. They've basically made green onion mini donuts and they are fried to the most golden perfection. Piping hot orbs of goodness, your teeth will sink right into these soft and chewy delights. I enjoyed the acidic and spicy dipping sauce a lot too, allowing for the ideal spicy-sweet experience. It's really awesome to see a new spin on such a popular dish. Moving to Sharables, when Korean Popcorn Chicken ($15.00) is on (any) menu, I'm probably going to eat it.
Fun and easy, these little pops of chicken jumped into my mouth with little effort. The chicken was tender and nicely fried. However, I will say that when I think of Korean fried chicken my mind goes to the deadly spicy and saucy kind. This dry-rubbed version was quite different but also much less messy to eat. In the context of sharable food where everyone is grabbing things and passing them around, this preparation makes a lot of sense. The menu features an entire section just for Bao, and let's face it, that's what we came for. With four different version to choose from, each made with different proteins, your bao dreams are about to come true. I went for the Pork Bao ($18.00).
Bao. Soft, puffy steamed buns. Maybe one of the world's most perfect foods. Like the other dishes on the menu at Baijiu this one was met with a bit of a twist. I expected a traditional braised pork belly but this version was more akin to pulled pork. My favourite dish of the meal, the pillowy buns enveloped the deliciously savoury and tender pork. The cabbage added the right amount of texture and crunch and the hint of acidity brought a desirable balance to the plate. I'd love to try the three other types! The last dish was the Siu Mai Dumpling ($18.00) from the aptly named "Dumplings" part of the menu.
As a general rule, I don't say "no" to dumplings. Just don't do it. These tasty pouches of goodness were full of flavour and a bit of heat. I liked the addition of chili paste on top as a signature move, all Baijiu's own. I've had better siu mai but these ones compliment the rest of the menu well.
Lastly, dessert. I had to try the 5 Spice Mini Donuts ($8.00). (Although their Fried Bao Ice Cream Sandwich sounds like a really excellent idea!)
Again, totally fun and easily sharable, served fresh out of the fryer. These mini donuts were a lot like the green onion buns, except sweet whereas the latter was savoury. Simple delicious dough coated in a lovely sugary blend of warm spices. If you're looking for a sweet but small taste at the end of your meal, this is the thing. I had a really great and social time at Baijiu, which I think is the point. Their cocktail program is absolutely the highlight and I would love to return to work my way through the menu. The food involves a bunch of clever twists on dishes that you thought you knew - until Baijiu got their hands on it. There are other restaurants in the area that offer similar cuisine but Baijiu really wins on their amazing location. Stop in for a drink!